SPRING COLLECTION “廿壱丿零参”

紅ヒダの本革袴

染めただけの特大サイズの一枚革そのままを、継ぎはぎせずに仕立てた袴。ヒダ奥·紐裏·内側は赤。
この本革袴の最大の特徴は、１枚の革を そのまま仕立てた野性味にあります。一般の革製品のように、複数の革のパーツを継ぎはぎして 組み合わせる方法でも、袴の形に仕上げることは可能。しかし、それは 静止した袴に整形した革であって、人間が着ることを想定すれば、布製の袴のようには 身体の動きに馴染まないし、美しさを維持できません。やはり、一枚革を使って仕立てたいのです。大半の方から “太いズボンだ”程度に考えられている袴ですが、袴１具(１着)に必要な生地の分量は、ズボンなら４本分以上、スーツなら上下が ゆうに作れます。袴のヒダの奥に、それだけ生地が隠れているからこそ、迫力ある存在感が仕上がるのです。大量の生地を要するところを 一枚革で作る訳だから、大きい方にも対応できる特大サイズの牛革が必要となります。しかも、皮革の素材は 生き物の皮なので、よく伸びる腹の部位は使えません。結局、小さい牛の皮では作れず、袴１着当たり 最大サイズの牛の革が 1.5頭分が必要でした。１頭の牛からは、左右半身づつ２枚の皮が取れます。それが袴の左右の足となります。長い紐も３本必要だが、伸びる部位は使えないので、更に 半身分の背の部分だけの皮を要しました。これらの原皮をなめし 革にして、一気に染めて 色を合わせました。ここで 漸く原材料が揃うのです。
次に、仕立てについて。そもそも、革の袴は 普通の仕立てでは作れないのです。信長が穿いたと伝わる 博物館の革袴のことしか聞いたことがないですが、これも 戦場用の乗馬ズボンに近い形。革にはアイロンが効かず、ヒダを作れないので、当然でしょう。布には可能でも、革には出来ない加工は多い。つまり、独自の機能性を持つ〈滴や〉のデザインでなければ、袴として成立しないのです。
革の縫製には、必要な道具も 携わる職人も異なります。加えて、機能·耐久性·重量を考えると、パーツごとに革を漉いて、厚みも変えねばなりません。裁断と漉きの工程を行き来せずには、縫製に入れないのです。縫製工程でも、革を縫う職人さんは 袴を知らないので、当店との二人三脚。ここまでの説明で お分かりでしょうが、この１着のために、なめしと染めのタンナーさん、革漉き、裁断、革の縫製…それぞれの職人さんと、たくさんの方々が 手間を掛けています。
最後に、色目について。ディティール画像にも写っているように、生き物の皮膚であった頃の野性味を消さないように、化粧をせずに、シワやムラを残した染めを施しています。まず、赤く先染めをして、縫製の後、表全体を黒に近い焦げ茶色に、ヒダ奥は深紅に後染めを施しました。荒々しさを感じさせる ワイルドな仕上げ。歩くと紅いヒダ奥が覗く刺激的な仕掛けになりました。また、紐裏や内側には先染めの赤が残っているので、紐を結ぶことや捻ることで見える赤や、断ち切りの裾の赤を見せて、着こなしにも遊びがあります。
所々に浮かぶ深紅のムラやスレ、うねるようなヒダは、暴れる野性を強引に封じ込めたみたいな迫力。しかし、近づき難い雰囲気まで醸し出しそうな気品もあります。この本革袴には、職人達の丁寧な技が 凝縮しているからでしょう。

The Hakama is made by dyeing an oversized one-piece of leather. We didn’t add another leather. The back of the folds, the back of the belt and the inside are red.
The main feature of this Full-grain leather Hakama is the wild taste of one piece of leather. Like most leather products, you can stitch together multiple leather parts to create the Hakama shape. However, it is a leather shaped into the shape of a stationary Hakama, and if it is supposed to be worn by humans, it does not fit in with the movement of the body like the cloth Hakama, and it cannot maintain its beauty. After all, we want to tailor it using a single piece of leather. Hakama is considered by most people to be “wide pants”, but the amount of material needed for one Hakama is more than 4 trousers, or you can easily make the top and bottom of a suit. Because the fabric is hidden behind the folds of Hakama, it has a powerful presence. Because it is made of a single piece of leather where a large amount of fabric is needed, an extra large size of cowhide that can be used for a large size is necessary. In addition, since leather is made of animal skin, you can’t use the part of belly that stretches well. In the end, we couldn’t make it with a small cow hide, and we needed 1.5 heads of the largest cow hide per Hakama. Two skins can be removed from each cow, right and left. These are the left and right feet of the Hakama. We needed 3 long belts, but I couldn’t use the part that stretches, so we needed the skin of the back of half of the body. These raw skins were tanned and dyed at once to match the color. This is where the raw materials finally come together.
Next, about tailoring. In the first place, the leather Hakama cannot be made with ordinary tailoring. The real leather Hakama is only known to which is said to have been worn by a military commander 450 years ago, It is in the museum. However, they were also shaped like riding trousers for battlefields. Leather cannot be ironed and can’t be folded. Cloth is possible, but leather is often not. In other words, if it is not a design of Shizukuya with unique functionality, it cannot be established as Hakama.
For sewing leather, the necessary tools and craftsmen are different. In addition, considering the function, durability and weight, the thickness must be changed for each part. If you don’t repeat the process of cutting and leather skiving, you won’t be able to sew it. Even in the sewing process, the craftsmen who sew leather do not know about Hakama, so they will work together with our shop. As you can see from the above explanation, there are many craftsmen involved in tanning and dying, leather skiving, cutting, and leather sewing … each process.
Finally, about the color scheme. As shown in the detail image, it is dyed without coating, leaving wrinkles and unevenness, so as not to erase the wild taste of the time when it was the skin of living things. First, it was dyed red first, then after sewing, the entire surface was dyed dark brown close to black, and the back of the folds was dyed deep red. A wild finish that makes you feel the power. When you walk, you can see the red back of the fold, which is an exciting mechanism. In addition, there is pre-dyed red on the back of the belt and inside of Hakama, so you can enjoy wearing it by showing the red that can be seen by tying or twisting the belt and the red of the hem of the cut-off.
The deep crimson spots, sles, and undulating folds that float here and there are powerful as if the wild nature was forcibly contained. However, there is an elegance that seems to create an atmosphere that is hard to get close to. This Full-grain leather Hakama is packed with the craftsmanship.

《2021 SPRING COLLECTION》